The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Cowbells; an Itinerary in the Swiss Bernese Alps
Switzerland, where I learnt the Sound of Music was set in Austria.
Day 1
Our Blackforest leg of this journey concludes, and we continue onwards to Grindelwald.
I visited 9 years ago and was awestruck by Switzerland's beauty and decided to one day bring my then-girlfriend here.
So here we are.
We punctually returned our rental car, and punctually arrived at our platform in Freiburg, Germany; where we waited for our hour late train.
That's why the best watches are "Swiss made"
I panicked a bit.
Luckily when a train is late, you get to take whatever is the fastest route to your intended destination, doesn't matter if you got the super cheap tickets that are specific for a certain time and train.
Fought off the horde and secured seats to Interlaken, a rush to transfer, and finally made it to Grindelwald at around 6 pm.
Checked into our little room in Hotel Hirschen, a far cry from Hotel Adler.
Was recommended Alte Post by the receptionist, who looked like a shy Simon Pegg, and was not disappointed.
It would be the nicest meal for me, and compared to all other restaurants I came across in the town, the most value for money, with prices just shy of 20 CHF for a main.
Cheaper, not cheap.
Day 2
First things first, Mt. First.
Made use of our Jungfrau regional pass.
Took the cable care up to Mt. First.
Loved the mysterious misty mountain feel.
A lot colder than I expected up there, hoodwinked by the lack of snow.
Wife, already breathless with the twins, could hardly move at that altitude. Plans to hike to a Lake Bachalpsee 1.5 hours away were shelved.
Though you could rent an electric bike to the lake and back from the top of Mt First, you could also rent a bike to go down the mountain and return it in town.
I took the First Glider ride, huge disappointment. No view and no thrills. Wasn't a free acceleration, more like a towed ride. Sad, don't bother.
Took the mountain carts down to the intermediate station. Butts wet from the rain..
You can take a scooter from the intermediate cable station down to town, but being uncomfortably wet, we opted for the cable car.
Popped by the train station, intending to book the tickets to Luzern and Zurich Airport. Lucky my wife was there and realised seats were nearly all reserved to go up to Jungfraujoch. Pro tip, reserve your jungfraujoch seats.
For dinner we went with Memory Cafe, and had out first taste of swiss cheese fondue.
My pregnant wife insists the alcohol in the cheese fondue would be fine and that all the alcohol would evaporate.
It didn't.
Alcoholic cheese not quite my thing.
Day 3
Like refugees fleeing, we made our way onto the train from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg, the transfer station to the train that goes up to Jungfraujoch.
Encountered a white male tourist telling other white people on the train that the problem was way too many Asian tourists.
Starts off with, "Well, I'm not a racist but..." Well, if that isn't a blue's clue for you.
It's 2019 now, many places now welcome dogs and Chinese.
Glad to have reserved a seat, because there were like 2 train loads of people just waiting for unreserved spots to become available to get up the mountain.
Organisation at the station was abysmal. Packed and herded like lamb being led to the slaughter, except we couldn't get to the slaughterhouse.
Many who did not have reserved seats were in the wrong queue and just choked up the gantry and were then just stuck there.
A nerve wrecking, unpleasant experience, especially when they keep announcing last call for boarding and I'm no where near the gantry.
Arriving at the observatory, you begin to see the rascist's point.
But what did you expect, everything here was made for tourist dollars.
It's freezing up here, you can tell because there's snow.
Air is noticeably thinner, breathless just walking slightly faster.
My wife informs me that's how she feels all the time now.
I can now empathise.
Views expectedly magnificent.
On our way down, we decided to disembark at Eigergletscher station and trek down to Kleine Scheidegg. An easy trail for anyone who isn't pregnant.
Got chased by cows on our way down.
For dinner my wife insisted we give fondue another try at Bellevue.
"We'll get them to put less alcohol in", she said.
They didn't.
Day 4
Finally made our way down the mountain to the Interlaken, where I realised I much preferred the small towns.
Took the funicular up to Harder Klum. Not up for a hike so we just made a round to the restaurant, and went back down.
Tried to trek to the lake but wife was feeling really pregnant.
Walked around looking for lunch, but everything was phenomenally expensive.
Briefly considered eating at Co-op and reminiscing of my poor medical student days.
Took the train to Lauterbrunnen. Had lunch there, saw the waterfall from afar before heading up towards Murren.
A very pretty town, with gorgeous views. Nice for a little quiet stroll.
It was quiet until an Indian tourist started shouting expletives at a Chinese tourist, because the Chinese tourist said there was a queue to take selfies at a picturesque spot.
Overall just a bad image for Asian tourists.
Oh there is also Singaporean restaurant.
Apparently well reviewed, but I really didn't come all the way here for Sing Chow fried noodles.
No, I came here for microwavable dinners.
For dinner I had planned to go back to the Alte Post, but it was their off day.
Why is the world so cruel to me?
Destined not to have the schnitzel with mushroom sauce spaghetti, despondent I wandered the streets looking for another cheap restaurant to eat.
Alas, there were none.
We ended up eating microwavable dinners and instant noodles from the supermarket.
When you're poor, there is no escaping the supermarket/ Co-op life.
Saw many paragliders, something I'll have to try if I ever go back. Would also have liked to try white water rafting and canyoning at Interlaken, but wife's pregnant and it'll be bad if I just left her behind.
O the many sacrifices a father makes.
Days 5,6
Our time in the Bernese Oberland concludes and we head over to Luzern.
There's a pretty shopping district, with many pretty watches I cannot afford.
And a very sad lion.
Found a pasta spot that I really loved, with reasonable prices, less than 20 CHF.
We also did a short trip to Aesbach chocolate factory, but it was a Saturday and we couldn't see the workers make the chocolate, but there was a nice exhibit with chocolate tasting and a make-your-own-slab-of-chocolate station.
On the last day, we took a train direct to Zurich airport and got on an economy flight back home.
Nitty Gritty
Accomodation
Grindelwald
We stayed in Hotel Hirschen.
Staff friendly, located conveniently between the train station at the cable cars up to Mt. First.
Price was about 200 CHF a night.
Luzern
Stayed in Hotel Astoria in Luzern, picked for it location, a short 10 min walk to the train station. Rooms were clean and modern looking.
Prices reasonable at 186 CHF a night.
Attractions
Jungfrau Travel Pass
Summer is considered the peak season.
We got the 3 day travel pass at 180 CHF per person, plus a supplementary ticket from Klein Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch at 74 CHF each.
Compared with return tickets from Grindelwald to Jungfraujoch, which would already set your back 190CHF.
The travel pass covers Interlaken, Harder Klum, Schynige Platte, Mt. First, Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Murren.
We used the pass to travel on the cable cars up to Mt. First, otherwise the cable car costs about 30 CHF. Or you could get a package, 1 Mt First attraction with cable car rides at about 46 CHF.
If money is a problem I strongly suggest Schilthorn, over at Murren. I went there years ago, and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Alot quieter compare to Jungfrau and Mt First. Not much to do but you can play in the snow. There's also that James Bond restaurant. Alot cheaper than Jungfrau.
Go to Jungfrau if money is not an issue, and if you are not dragging along kids, because while the attractions such as the snow park and ice sculptures seemed to be geared towards kids, I think the atmosphere really gets them, because they all want to lie down and are begging their parents to stop taking pictures and bring them back down.
Mt First is the most fun for me, especially the mountain carts and scooters going down hill back to town. Less crowded than Jungfrau with nice mountain trails. The Chinese tourists will be all over the Tissot cliffside walk, but you can choose to hike to Lake Balchalpsee or the other many trails. You can even walk back down if you want that quiet connection with nature.
Food
Alte Post
I really loved this restaurant. No fondue here, the fare is more German.
Fondue
I tried them at Bellevue
as well as Memory Cafe.
They both seem to be popular. I liked Bellevue's fondue better because it came with bacon.
For more of my adventures, follow me
Day 1
Our Blackforest leg of this journey concludes, and we continue onwards to Grindelwald.
I visited 9 years ago and was awestruck by Switzerland's beauty and decided to one day bring my then-girlfriend here.
So here we are.
We punctually returned our rental car, and punctually arrived at our platform in Freiburg, Germany; where we waited for our hour late train.
That's why the best watches are "Swiss made"
I panicked a bit.
Luckily when a train is late, you get to take whatever is the fastest route to your intended destination, doesn't matter if you got the super cheap tickets that are specific for a certain time and train.
Fought off the horde and secured seats to Interlaken, a rush to transfer, and finally made it to Grindelwald at around 6 pm.
Checked into our little room in Hotel Hirschen, a far cry from Hotel Adler.
 |
| Not our hotel |
Was recommended Alte Post by the receptionist, who looked like a shy Simon Pegg, and was not disappointed.
It would be the nicest meal for me, and compared to all other restaurants I came across in the town, the most value for money, with prices just shy of 20 CHF for a main.
Cheaper, not cheap.
Day 2
First things first, Mt. First.
Made use of our Jungfrau regional pass.
Took the cable care up to Mt. First.
Loved the mysterious misty mountain feel.
 |
| Views on the way up |
 |
| Glacier? |
A lot colder than I expected up there, hoodwinked by the lack of snow.
 |
| Cow and bench |
Wife, already breathless with the twins, could hardly move at that altitude. Plans to hike to a Lake Bachalpsee 1.5 hours away were shelved.
Though you could rent an electric bike to the lake and back from the top of Mt First, you could also rent a bike to go down the mountain and return it in town.
I took the First Glider ride, huge disappointment. No view and no thrills. Wasn't a free acceleration, more like a towed ride. Sad, don't bother.
 |
| pffft |
Took the mountain carts down to the intermediate station. Butts wet from the rain..
 |
| beep beep |
You can take a scooter from the intermediate cable station down to town, but being uncomfortably wet, we opted for the cable car.
 |
| aforementioned wet butt |
Popped by the train station, intending to book the tickets to Luzern and Zurich Airport. Lucky my wife was there and realised seats were nearly all reserved to go up to Jungfraujoch. Pro tip, reserve your jungfraujoch seats.
For dinner we went with Memory Cafe, and had out first taste of swiss cheese fondue.
My pregnant wife insists the alcohol in the cheese fondue would be fine and that all the alcohol would evaporate.
It didn't.
Alcoholic cheese not quite my thing.
 |
| wish i could take the cast iron pot home |
Day 3
Like refugees fleeing, we made our way onto the train from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg, the transfer station to the train that goes up to Jungfraujoch.
 |
| Kleine Scheidegg in the background |
Encountered a white male tourist telling other white people on the train that the problem was way too many Asian tourists.
Starts off with, "Well, I'm not a racist but..." Well, if that isn't a blue's clue for you.
It's 2019 now, many places now welcome dogs and Chinese.
 |
| triggered |
Glad to have reserved a seat, because there were like 2 train loads of people just waiting for unreserved spots to become available to get up the mountain.
Organisation at the station was abysmal. Packed and herded like lamb being led to the slaughter, except we couldn't get to the slaughterhouse.
Many who did not have reserved seats were in the wrong queue and just choked up the gantry and were then just stuck there.
A nerve wrecking, unpleasant experience, especially when they keep announcing last call for boarding and I'm no where near the gantry.
But what did you expect, everything here was made for tourist dollars.
 |
| Well, almost everything, except this one. |
It's freezing up here, you can tell because there's snow.
 |
| and icicles |
Air is noticeably thinner, breathless just walking slightly faster.
My wife informs me that's how she feels all the time now.
I can now empathise.
Views expectedly magnificent.
 |
| unnecessary creepy animatronic |
On our way down, we decided to disembark at Eigergletscher station and trek down to Kleine Scheidegg. An easy trail for anyone who isn't pregnant.
 |
| Pregnant wife seen here about to race the train up the mountain |
 |
| so cute! |
 |
| Going on an adventure! |
Got chased by cows on our way down.
 |
| despite what this picture looks like, did not leave her to the cows |
For dinner my wife insisted we give fondue another try at Bellevue.
"We'll get them to put less alcohol in", she said.
They didn't.
Day 4
Finally made our way down the mountain to the Interlaken, where I realised I much preferred the small towns.
Took the funicular up to Harder Klum. Not up for a hike so we just made a round to the restaurant, and went back down.
Tried to trek to the lake but wife was feeling really pregnant.
Walked around looking for lunch, but everything was phenomenally expensive.
Briefly considered eating at Co-op and reminiscing of my poor medical student days.
Took the train to Lauterbrunnen. Had lunch there, saw the waterfall from afar before heading up towards Murren.
A very pretty town, with gorgeous views. Nice for a little quiet stroll.
It was quiet until an Indian tourist started shouting expletives at a Chinese tourist, because the Chinese tourist said there was a queue to take selfies at a picturesque spot.
Overall just a bad image for Asian tourists.
Oh there is also Singaporean restaurant.
Apparently well reviewed, but I really didn't come all the way here for Sing Chow fried noodles.
No, I came here for microwavable dinners.
For dinner I had planned to go back to the Alte Post, but it was their off day.
Why is the world so cruel to me?
Destined not to have the schnitzel with mushroom sauce spaghetti, despondent I wandered the streets looking for another cheap restaurant to eat.
Alas, there were none.
 |
| break from looking for food |
We ended up eating microwavable dinners and instant noodles from the supermarket.
When you're poor, there is no escaping the supermarket/ Co-op life.
 |
| 18 CHF |
Saw many paragliders, something I'll have to try if I ever go back. Would also have liked to try white water rafting and canyoning at Interlaken, but wife's pregnant and it'll be bad if I just left her behind.
O the many sacrifices a father makes.
Days 5,6
Our time in the Bernese Oberland concludes and we head over to Luzern.
There's a pretty shopping district, with many pretty watches I cannot afford.
And a very sad lion.
 |
| sad reac only |
Found a pasta spot that I really loved, with reasonable prices, less than 20 CHF.
 |
| Pastarazzi |
We also did a short trip to Aesbach chocolate factory, but it was a Saturday and we couldn't see the workers make the chocolate, but there was a nice exhibit with chocolate tasting and a make-your-own-slab-of-chocolate station.
On the last day, we took a train direct to Zurich airport and got on an economy flight back home.
Nitty Gritty
Accomodation
Grindelwald
We stayed in Hotel Hirschen.
Staff friendly, located conveniently between the train station at the cable cars up to Mt. First.
Price was about 200 CHF a night.
Luzern
Stayed in Hotel Astoria in Luzern, picked for it location, a short 10 min walk to the train station. Rooms were clean and modern looking.
Prices reasonable at 186 CHF a night.
Attractions
Jungfrau Travel Pass
Summer is considered the peak season.
We got the 3 day travel pass at 180 CHF per person, plus a supplementary ticket from Klein Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch at 74 CHF each.
Compared with return tickets from Grindelwald to Jungfraujoch, which would already set your back 190CHF.
The travel pass covers Interlaken, Harder Klum, Schynige Platte, Mt. First, Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, Murren.
We used the pass to travel on the cable cars up to Mt. First, otherwise the cable car costs about 30 CHF. Or you could get a package, 1 Mt First attraction with cable car rides at about 46 CHF.
If money is a problem I strongly suggest Schilthorn, over at Murren. I went there years ago, and thoroughly enjoyed myself. Alot quieter compare to Jungfrau and Mt First. Not much to do but you can play in the snow. There's also that James Bond restaurant. Alot cheaper than Jungfrau.
Go to Jungfrau if money is not an issue, and if you are not dragging along kids, because while the attractions such as the snow park and ice sculptures seemed to be geared towards kids, I think the atmosphere really gets them, because they all want to lie down and are begging their parents to stop taking pictures and bring them back down.
Mt First is the most fun for me, especially the mountain carts and scooters going down hill back to town. Less crowded than Jungfrau with nice mountain trails. The Chinese tourists will be all over the Tissot cliffside walk, but you can choose to hike to Lake Balchalpsee or the other many trails. You can even walk back down if you want that quiet connection with nature.
Food
Alte Post
I really loved this restaurant. No fondue here, the fare is more German.
Fondue
I tried them at Bellevue
as well as Memory Cafe.
They both seem to be popular. I liked Bellevue's fondue better because it came with bacon.
For more of my adventures, follow me
Comments
Post a Comment