Okinawa; a 4 Day Road Trip/ Driving Itinerary

Best come back in Summer.



If you've never been to Japan before, this is probably not the best place to start.
It looks like Malaysia if Malaysia was cleaner.

The only thing it has in common with the rest of Japan is its Pachinko machines.

Still on parental leave, we left out babies behind for a much needed break with the excuse of attending the destination wedding of my best friend.

Day 1

If you're visiting from Singapore, as far as I know there is only one direct flight by Jetstar at 2 am and arriving around 8 am.

Arriving at Naha airport, we headed over to the domestic terminal's Pork Tamago Onigiri to have some of Okinawa's famous Spam and tamago onigiri. Like a posh person's poor man meal.

I hear the queue's a lot shorter than the one in Naha, Kokusai-dori. There is still a queue though if you clear customs abit slower than your fellow passengers.


with the mentaiko sauce


We took the shuttle bus to the rental car companies. We chose Okinawa Tourist Services (OTS) for its good reviews and pricing. We'd originally opted for the smallest cheapest care, but there we got a free upgrade to a bigger hybrid, a Toyota Sienta. Way more spacious than the Honda Fit I was expecting, saved on petrol too I reckon.


Odd looking man driving an odd looking car


Thought we would start the day with some shopping.
Just across the street of the car rental company is Ashibanaa Outlet Mall.
The saddest, most dreary mall I've laid eyes one.


Even this picture looks depressing

Stores had the audacity to display huge posters declaring a store wide discount of 5%.
5%? This is an outlet mall, how dare you!
Selections were paltry compared to what most will be used to in USA.

It also didn't help that it was raining.


Godiva chocolate to appease the missus

After a disappointing start, we made our way up north, towards the American Village. Right next to it would be our hotel, Vessel Hotel Campana. 

It's near seaside cafes and has got it's own little beach. 

We would enjoy neither of those due to the horrid weather. I understand it's much nicer in the summer.

My wife continued to pump to keep up the milk supply. The hotel kindly allowed us to keep our breast milk in their freezer throughout our stay.

Made a quick pit stop at Motonari Ramen for lunch before heading to Churaumi Aquarium.


Try the Tsukemen ramen 


They had this 580 yen beer set with 6 pcs of gyoza
In Okinawa, you have you try the Orion beer, so I did. I don't even like beer. The ramen was good and cheap but nothing exceptional like Fuunji.


Unglam pictures is how I show my love


Finally made it to the aquarium at about 4.45pm. Missed the dolphin show and whale shark feeding. The aquarium is more like a complex/ park. There is the main building with the giant tank with the whale sharks, then there're smaller pools near the sea for dolphins, sea turtles and manatees. Not sure if they're open past 5, it was too cold and windy to check.

If you are coming for a visit, do come earlier to fully experience the aquarium. It's inconveniently located in the north western bulge of Okinawa, it's quite a long drive, about 2.5 hours from Naha.








Churaumi aquarium
The star of the show
Would recommend a visit if you've never seen a whale shark, which I think is the main draw.


Churaumi aquarium
They let you go up to the top of the tank, where they prepare the feeds etc.


churaumi aquarium
Brutal


you can see the dolphin, turtle and manatee pools in the background
After the aquarium, we met the groom and his parents for his last meal at Ryukyu no Ushi before the wedding. It's a chain of higher end yakiniku.






My friend's treat and I was too Asian to order the more over the top cuts.


Taco Rice
Taco rice in a stone bowl. Odd, but oddly satisfying

I had misgivings initially with taco rice, since they had shredded lettuce, but once I got over it, it quickly became my favourite dish in Okinawa. It's like a Mexican rice bowl, but the feel is so Asian, even thought the ingredients are so similar. 
Day 2


Drove early to the wedding venue to help with some photo taking of the make up session and B roll shots. Held at Lazor Garden Alivila, beautiful glass chapel by the beach.



For more on the destination wedding, click here

Initially planned to head to Naha, but still suffering from sleep debt, we took a nap at our hotel instead. By the time we woke up, the sun had set. So we decided to just wander around the American Village instead. I would give it a skip really, nothing very interesting or uniquely okinawan. Felt just like another tourist trap selling overpriced magnets and print T shirts. 


The newly weds, not sick of me yet, met up with us and another couple for dinner again at the same chain Ryukyu No Ushi. This time we made it clear we will split the bill, and we went crazy with the wagyu. It's about 4000 yen for about 150g of prime cut.

Ended the night with blue seal ice cream. 


Blue seal


Blue seal

I tried the okinawan salted cookie, pretty good, but it tasted like vanilla and cookie dough, so if you're expecting salted caramel, this ain't it.


Day 3

Had planned to go snorkelling at Cape Maeda's Blue Cave, however due to the rough sea conditions it was cancelled. Just as well it let us sleep in till 10am.

Drove to a nearby cafe, Komeda Coffee, for breakfast. Highly recommended, I've always wanted to go to a Japanese cafe, the dishes just look so pretty.

You get a free toast and egg mayo/ jam set if you order before 11am. 

I also tried their curry katsu sando (pork cutlet sandwich) and their soft serve with danish pastry. 

Really filling, so come here at brunch and you can skip lunch leaving you more time for exploring.










Decided to skip Cape Maeda in favour of Cape Manzamo. Easy parking, easy hike, very little tourists this time of year.

I could spend the day just watching the waves crash into the cliff face, like my dreams halted by reality and fading back into nothing.


Just an overall cheery place with beautiful sights.
Cape Manzamo
Why's the horizon tilted? Why isn't she tilted?


Cape Manzamo


Cape Manzamo


We drove to Ganaha Livestock Village with plans to have lunch there, but it was closed. Something about pork cholera?

On the back of our calorie packed breakfast, we decided to just continue on to Tataki Falls.

This is one of the coolest trails I've ever attempted. To get to the falls, you have to wade/ford the river. At some point you climb up a rock face. Would be perfect if not for the freezing waters.

The end point was spectacular. Would love to come back in the summer and take a dip at the falls.


Tataki falls


Tataki Falls


Tataki Falls


Tataki falls


Tataki falls


Tataki falls


Tataki falls


Tataki falls


Tataki falls
Feet hyperaemic from the cold water
Random sakuras and me feeling pretty

Headed to Kouri Island for it's Hawaiian styled Kouri Shrimp. Kouri Island wasn't in my original itinerary, but we were hungry and my friends have been hyping Kouri Shrimp. Thankfully only a short drive from Tataki Falls, made it there before they closed at 6pm

The original shrimp and the butter shrimp is about 300 yen apart. The 300 yen is just for butter I think, sounds pricey, but it made a world of difference. The butter is super pricey considering that for 550 yen you get a side of beef, which I would also recommend.

That shrimp bowl is totally worth the drive. I've changed my mind, this is the best dish in Okinawa! Alas, I realised too late, and this would be the last time I eat it on this trip.


Kouri island shrimp


Kouri Island Shrimp
felt risque, but not sure why




Kouri Island Shrimp


Kouri Island Shrimp


Kouri Island shrimp
Would recommend the butter shrimps with a side of beef.

Since we were there, my wife wanted to visit the heart shaped rocks. Parking is usually paid I think, but in winter, everything seemed to be abandoned.


Kouri island heart shaped rock

After our dinner, we headed back to the Chatan, where we had our second dinner.

I always had the idea that conveyor belt sushi were like fast food chains with sub par sushi, but Gurume Coneyor Belt Sushi was legit, complete with locals, my litmus test for restaurants.
I loved the aburi sake sushi. I'm not a sashimi lover, and even I enjoyed the sushi terribly.


Gurume conveyor belt sushi


Gurume conveyor belt sushi


Gurume conveyor belt sushi


Gurume Conveyor belt sushi
so adorable


Gurume conveyor belt sushi


Gurume conveyor belt sushi
You can see the prices for the different plates


Gurume conveyor belt sushi


Gurume conveyor belt sushi

After the sushi, I was still feeling peckish so decided to go for more taco rice at Cafe Kijimuna at the American Village.

The Taco rice was slightly different from the one at Ryukyu no Ushi. The rice was less saucy, and the taste was cleaner but not really in a good way, would've liked it more messy and sloppy. I like that I could get an omelette on top, but I think I preferred the one at Ryukyu no Ushi.


Taco rice american village


taco rice


taco rice
The rice is so fluffy

Day 4

Made prior arrangements to visit Aka island, part of the Kerama Islands. 

Considered cancelling the day before because of the weather, but it was forecasted to be sunny so we persisted.

We took the Queen Zamami ferry from Port Tomari.


aka island


Aka island


Thoroughly enjoyed myself, though most shops were closed, was impossible to get a wet suit rental, and difficult to find a decent meal in the winter months.

The only bicycle rental that was opened was Hana Cafe.


Aka island


Aka island


Aka island deer

We were super lucky to stumble onto the deers at the start of our cycling trail.


Aka island deer
Getting up close, but still a respectful distance


Aka island


Aka island nishibama beach

We cycled to Nishibama beach, hoping to do some snorkelling from the beach.

Because of the season, there wasn't a lifeguard on duty, and there was a sign that said no swimming, but I'm known to be quite the rebel.

I lasted about 5 minutes in the 20 degree water with my surf jacket.

Just 10 metres from the shore you will find reefs teeming with life.

I couldn't rent a safety vest, so I didn't venture further, where I've read the marine life is more vibrant.

Rebellious, but safe.

Didn't manage to see any turtles.


Aka island Nishibama beach

Being off season, the beach was super peaceful and quiet.

You could sit here and record a 10 hour youtube video of ocean sounds to put babies to sleep.


Aka island nishibama beach


Aka island Nishibama beach
It's love when she waits for you with a towel.


Aka island
FIshing because he couldn't find any lunch either.

For lunch we wanted to try this Italian restaurant in the southern Geruma Island, so we cycled across, only to realise they were closed as well.


Aka island


Aka island


geruma aka island


Aka island


Aka island


Aka island


Aka island

Went back to Hana Cafe and had some pretty expensive tomato sauce spaghetti.




Aka island


Following the disappointing lunch we headed back to the ferry terminal and returned to the main island.

We headed to Kokusai-Dori, and famished we headed to Shishiya Teppenyaki Steak, where a 15000 yen steak seems reasonable.
But I think it really is, when it's A5.

The first thing I smelled there wasn't steak but giant prawns that look like lobsters. My wife wouldn't let me have it, something about cholesterol levels and dying young. 

We picked an A5 steak and an agu pork cutlet. Agu pork just because it's Okinawa. Pork was nothing to write home about, would rather have had the prawns.

The beef though was worth the double dose of statins. Melt in your mouth bovine goodness, with lettuce salad with a vinaigrette to cut the greasiness.

It was really fatty, you can tell because I started to spontaneously eat the greens.


Naha teppanyaki


Naha teppanyaki


Naha teppanyaki
more fat than meat


Naha teppanyaki
some Ilford HP5 goodness


Naha teppanyaki


Naha teppanyaki

Strolled along the the streets abit before heading back to pack up.


Naha


Naha Kokusai Dori


Naha Kokusai Dori


Naha Kokusai Dori


Kokusai Dori

The street is pretty touristy, no branded shopping, just a bunch of stores selling tidbits and souvenirs. Pretty meh.

Day 5

Returned the car in good time and caught the flight back to Singapore, and back to work...


A little more on the...

Weather
Went in the month of February. Weather was bloody terrible. Cold and windy.
Temperature ranged from 10-20 degrees. Not beach weather.
If you plan to swim, prepare wetsuits.
We under packed and had to go to Uniqlo for some emergency puffer jacket.

Driving

Driving is a breeze, same side of the road as Singapore. Not too congested most of the time.
You can do without the highway and tolls most of the time, doesn't save you too much time anyway.

Okinawa is a pretty big island, attraction to attraction may be an hour drive or more, so allocate plenty of time for that.

Parking is generally free except in the Naha city area.
The cheapest rates I found was Kokuba Parking lot, 200 yen per hour, just a short walk off the main shopping street. 



Rental
I went with OTS. Price was reasonable, about 160 SGD for 4 days.
You've got to do smoe safety orientation online before the pick up.

They're normal business hour is at 8am. If you are catching that 9 am flight back to Singapore, you need to be an additional 1000 yen for an early return at 6 am.
After all the customers who are supposed to return the car at 6 have returned the car, they will shuttle everyone on a bus to the airport.

As with all car rentals, you return the car with a full tank. The petrol kiosk next to the rental company nearest the airport is not 24 hours! Fill it up before reaching the rental company. Found out the hard way and had to make a detour to look for a petrol station that was open.

Accomodation
Vessel Hotel Campana Okinawa would be highly recommended due to its convenient location, readily available food in the neighborhood and 24 hours Lawson attached to its annex.

This is not a 5 star hotel, and they didn't even have a bellboy to bring my luggage up to the room, but the staff members are friendly and accommodating enough. They let us use the freezer for all the breast milk.





At about 100 SGD per night, it was super spacious. It can comfortably sleep 4 adults. Great if you've  kids tagging along.

Attractions

Tataki Falls
The GPS in my car didn't have the attraction listed, had to use google maps to navigate there.
I would highly recommend it if everyone is like 15 years old and above, not for little kids.
As I mentioned above, it requires some scampering up rock walls and wading in the water. Bring proper wet shoes if you have, if not sandals would be fine.

Parking is not free, 300 yen for the first hour, and 50 yen for every 30 mins after that, so chop chop with the hike.

Bring an extra change of clothes so you can have a dip under the falls. Toilets are located at the carpark, but showering is not free, so prepare some 100 yen coins if you plan to shower.




Aka Island

Part of the Kerama islands that include Zamami Island and Tokashiki Island. The main islands I've never been but i expect more infrastructure and bigger crowds.

I picked Aka Island for that secluded feel and it did not disappoint.

To get to Aka Island you take a ferry from the port in Naha. There is a building just for parking at the port. The ticketing office is in the building next to it.

I reserved tickets before hand from their official website. They don't charge the credit card until the day of boarding, so if you need to cancel you can just call up to 1 day before. 

There are two ferries to Aka Island, one is a slower ferry and the other is the high speed ferry. 

The slower ferry is about 1hr 30 min and the high speed ferry is 50 mins. The slower ferry seems to only make 1 trip in the winter months and the high speed ferry makes two, so you depart Naha at 9 am and return from Aka Island around 4 pm. 

So if it's a day trip, the high speed ferry is the way to go. Round trip tickets are about 6000 yen for the high speed ferry.

There are a few stores that open for lunch in the winter months, but they only open from about 12 to 2pm, so no late lunches.

There's abundant marine life amongst the corals off the shore, snorkeling is highly recommended.

Food

Pork Tamago Onigri
Any rudimentary search on food in Okinawa would point you towards Pork Tamago Onigiri. Not exactly an exciting culinary experience, but it's kinda cute. Not too price at 280 yen for the basic egg and spam to about 350- 400 yen for one with mentaiko or an ebi fry.

Gurume Conveyor Belt Sushi
If you've never been to a conveyor belt sushi restaurant before, I highly recommend this one. Delicious sushi, reasonable prices and it's not all tourists in a very touristy place.



Kouri Shrimp

A definite must try. Worth the drive to Kouri Island for the Kouri Shrimp. The heart shaped rock you can take it or leave it.

Parking is along the road, first right after the bridge. The actual restaurant is a short walk uphill.


Komeda Coffee
If you need a heavy breakfast this is the place to get it.



Shishiya Teppenyaki


Between Shishiya and Ryukyu no Ushi, I liked Shishiya a lot more though it was pricier. You get what you paid for. A simple meal with high quality beef.



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